This guide covers moving plants within the UK. If you are relocating overseas, the short answer is that your plants are staying here, and the sensible plan is to buy new ones once you arrive.
On a domestic move the picture is much better. Moving plants when moving house is mostly a question of houseplants, along with pots, planters and the occasional specimen from the garden, and almost all of it comes down to how they are packed, where they sit in the vehicle and how quickly they come back out at the other end.
It is worth the planning. UK households spent around £9 billion on retail garden products in 2025, and no nursery can replace years of growth overnight.
We move plants on domestic UK moves. We do not take them across a border, and you will find very few removals companies anywhere that do. The rules and the timings make it close to impossible to do properly.
The paperwork is the obvious obstacle. It is prohibited to bring plants into the EU in personal luggage unless they are accompanied by a phytosanitary certificate, with a handful of fruits as the only exceptions, and a certificate to move plants out of Great Britain currently costs £25.52, with inspection fees on top.
The soil is the harder problem. Most of the pest risk travels in the growing medium rather than the plant, so a certificate often depends on the roots being washed clean and the plant repotted into an approved medium.
Then there is time. An international move travels by sea and spends weeks in a sealed container with no light, water or ventilation, and no houseplant comes out of that alive. Air freight shortens the journey without removing the paperwork, and the cost rarely makes sense for something replaceable at the other end.
The plants themselves are usually easier to place than people expect.
Most houseplants come through a UK move perfectly well. What matters is keeping their time in the vehicle short, protecting them from cold and heat while they are in there, and getting them into stable light and temperature quickly at the other end. Even a short move means a shift in light, temperature and humidity in a single day, so a period of sulking afterwards is normal.
Pack houseplants so they are secure but not sealed.
Sturdy plants with tough, thick leaves, snake plants, ZZ plants and rubber plants among them, generally handle a move without complaint. Ferns, trailing succulents and anything delicate or very leafy are more prone to physical damage and need more padding and a considered position in the load. Some plants, the fiddle-leaf fig being the familiar example, drop leaves after any change of position at all, so expect a few weeks of adjustment.
Orchids and anything in flower are worth travelling with you in the car if you can. They dislike being jostled, and flowers and buds are the first thing to go.
The load area of a removal vehicle is not heated the way a car is, so in winter the temperature inside can fall close to whatever it is outside. Most houseplants are tropical in origin and dislike prolonged cold, and frost will damage foliage quickly. A vehicle standing overnight during a cold snap is the real risk, because nobody sees what has happened until the doors open.
Summer brings the opposite problem. A closed vehicle in the sun warms quickly and plants inside it lose moisture fast. Well-watered plants cope with a short spell of warmth better than they cope with cold, but neither is good for them.
On any move that runs over more than one day, or in a hard frost, take the plants in the car with you. A heated car, a hotel windowsill or a temporary stay with a friend or family will do more for them than anything else available.
Plants should go in last and come out first, so they are not buried behind wardrobes and boxes when the doors open at the other end. Take them straight indoors or to a sheltered spot on arrival. Leaving them on a driveway while the rest of the move comes off the vehicle undoes most of the care taken getting them there.
Give each plant light conditions as close as you can to what it had before, using the photographs you took. Water normally rather than generously, since a stressed plant with wet roots is worse off than a slightly dry one. Hold off feeding for a month or so, and do not repot until you see new growth.
Plants cannot go into storage. Storage units and containers are dark, unventilated and unheated, and live plants are on the prohibited list at most UK facilities as a matter of course. The same applies to containerised storage, where your belongings are sealed into wooden containers and warehoused.
This comes up more often than people expect, because completion dates are set by the chain rather than by you, and a gap of a few days between moving out and moving in is common.
Tell your move coordinator early if a storage period is likely, so the plants are planned around separately rather than turning up at the warehouse on the day.
In England and Wales, what stays with a house and what leaves with you is set out on the Law Society’s TA10 Fittings and Contents Form, completed during conveyancing. The form’s outdoor section covers items such as garden furniture, trees and plants, each marked as included in the sale, excluded, or available to buy separately. Scotland has its own conveyancing process, so check with your solicitor if you are selling there.
As a general principle, permanently planted trees and shrubs are fixtures that pass to the buyer, while potted plants are fittings the seller can remove. A treasured rose or a specimen tree can feel obviously yours, but if it is planted in the ground and not listed as excluded, the buyer is entitled to expect it to be there.
Once contracts are exchanged the form becomes part of the agreement, and if you state that an item will be left and then take it with you, you could face a legal claim. Excluding plants from beds and borders is unusual, so expect the buyer to comment or negotiate. Decide early which planted specimens you want, mark them as excluded on the form, and agree the list with the buyer in writing before exchange.
This section is general information rather than legal advice. Where a valuable or sentimental plant is involved, raise it with your conveyancer directly.
Transplant shock is the stress a plant shows after its roots are disturbed, usually wilting, yellowing or dropping leaves and slowed growth. Mild cases often settle within a few weeks. Larger shrubs and trees can take considerably longer, in some cases a full growing season, so treat any timescale as a guide rather than a promise.
For anything planted into a new garden, most of the aftercare happens in the first year. The RHS recommends watering plants in thoroughly after planting and during dry spells, carried on through the whole of that year.
Most of what decides how well your plants come through a move happens before moving day: deciding early what travels, keeping them out of any storage period, and planning the journey around cold and heat rather than hoping for a mild week.
If you are planning a move and would like to talk through the whole picture, from the contents of the house to what happens in the garden, arrange a tailored home survey. Your dedicated move coordinator will be your single point of contact from the first conversation to the last delivery.
Realistically, no. Plants cannot enter the EU in personal luggage without a phytosanitary certificate, rules elsewhere are often stricter, and the growing medium usually has to be washed off the roots first. Even with the paperwork in order, a plant will not survive weeks in a sealed shipping container.
In most cases, yes. Most come through a UK move well with basic precautions: secure packing, protection from extreme cold or heat, and as little time in the vehicle as possible. The risk rises on overnight stops and winter moves, where cold is the main threat.
No. Storage units and containers are dark, unventilated and unheated, and live plants are prohibited at UK storage facilities as standard. If there is a gap between moving out and moving in, take the plants with you or ask someone to look after them until you are in.
The dormant season, roughly October to March, is the best time to move established plants in the UK. Deciduous plants can be moved from late October to mid-March. Evergreens do best in October or late March as the soil warms. Avoid moving plants in frozen, waterlogged or very dry ground.
For anything you value and expect to take with you, a container is the most reliable approach. Potted plants are generally treated as fittings you can take, while planted ones usually stay with the house unless excluded on the TA10 form. The trade-off is space, as a large collection of pots needs planning into the move.
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